We’ve just published two podcast episodes about the 20th arrondissement of Paris. This district is huge, mostly residential neighbourhood in the east of Paris, known to tourists for the famed Pere Lachaise cemetery.
The first was with social worker Abiola, who absolutely loves the 20th, and showed us his favourite cafes and restaurants. The second was an updated version of the time we spent 24 hours in the district, and featured a strong focus on the legendary French singer Edith Piaf, who was born and buried in this district.
You can listen to them both here.
Below are ten things to find in the 20th, pick and mixed from these two episodes.
The Earful Tower’s guide to the 20th arrondissement
1. Père Lachaise Cemetery
The most beautiful cemetery in the world and the final resting place of Jim Morrison, Edith Piaf, Oscar Wilde, and more. Address: 16 Rue du Repos, 75020
If you’re heading to the cemetery, here are a few cool graves to seek out.
Great restaurants in the 20th arrondissement
2. Le Vieux Belleville for the Edith Piaf singalong, though remember this is only on Tuesday nights. Other nights have other themes. Address: 12 Rue des Envierges, 75020 @levieuxbelleville
3. Peppe Pizzeria for the best Pizza in Europe, according to a ranking by Italian website 50 Top Pizza. Address: 2 Pl. Saint-Blaise, 75020 @peppe.paris
4. Paloma: We ate in this charming bistro that opened in 2021. An ever-changing menu, totally run by women, and a true sense of community. Pictured below is Abiola, who showed us the neighbourhood.
Address: 93 Rue Julien Lacroix, 75020
A fun bar in the 20th arrondissement
5. Aux Folies: The coolest bar in the neighbourhood, grab a drink and be merry with the locals. Address: 8 Rue de Belleville, 75020 Paris @auxfoliesbelleville
Three great cafes in the 20th arrondissement
6. Candle Kids: This is a former laundromat turned cool cafe! (Pictured below)
Address: 107 rue des couronnes, 75020
7. Bambin: Extra shoutout to Astrid from Bambin cafe who appeared in the podcast episode too. Her child-friendly (you could even say child-focused!) cafe is now selling our children’s books. Say hello from me.
8. The Dancing Goat: One of the hippest coffee shops in the hood, with friendly staff and a beautiful interior. Address: 117 Av. Gambetta, 75020 @thedancinggoatparis
9. Parc de Belleville: Sweeping views of the city from the top, and a good spot to sit back on the grass and chill out.
10. Edith Piaf’s birthplace: Find Edith’s first apartment, though there’s no museum inside, just a plaque on the wall (you can see the plaque above the blue door, to the right of the picture below). Address: 72 Rue de Belleville, 75020
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More things to find in the 20th arrondissement
Of course there are many more things to find in the 20th, but which didn’t make our top ten. Perhaps they were mentioned in the episodes above! Find them here.
La Campagne à Paris: This is the countryside of Paris, but would surely be best visited in spring or summer. Don’t make the trek unless you’re nearby, great for a charming “village in Paris” photo. Address: Rue Paul Strauss, 75020
Best food markets at Marché de Belleville at Boulevard de Belleville, on Tuesdays and Fridays.
Street Art: There’s street art all over the place, keep looking up, backwards, over your shoulder, and even at your feet! The most concentrated collection is a bunch of murals along Rue du Retrait. The picture below is from Rue de Belleville.
That will do for now! I hope you enjoyed episode one for this new season and if you enjoyed this guide, why not check out our guide to the 19th arrondissement?
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Video guide to the 20th arrondissement
Here is the video we made after spending a day in the district, so you can feel like you’re there too! Be sure to subscribe on YouTube for more of the same (you can do it in one click via this link).
Some of these places even made it into my 100-page 2026 PDF guide to Paris, which you can buy here. Or of course, you can get it free when you’re an Earful Tower member. (Already a member? Here’s the link to the unlocked guide on Substack and Patreon).
Want to see our take on Paris with your own eyes? The Earful Tower Tours are legitimately some of the best-rated walking tours in all of France, and my team and I are excited to show you around this magnificent city. Book a tour now, you are guaranteed an excellent time. And who doesn’t want to have an excellent time?
See you soon for the 19th arrondissement.