The A to Z of French food, according to David Lebovitz

This week on The Earful Tower podcast it’s American pastry chef and cookbook author David Lebovitz. We talked almost exclusively about the Aligre Markets in the 12th arrondissement. You can listen to it below.

After recording the show, we reminisced about his very first appearance on this podcast in 2017, when I asked for his thoughts on the full alphabet of French food.

Here’s a freshly updated look at his answers, with new tips for bakeries, restaurants, and cafes added to the mix. And for a bit of colour, all the pictures were taken today at the Marché d’Aligre itself.

A is for l’Addition: How should you ask for the bill at a French restaurant?

There are two ways to order the addition. You can wave your hands furiously to get their attention… France is not like America where there can be 20 waiters, there’s usually just one or two and they’re busy. But the best way is to go right up to the bar, then you can get out a little faster.

B is for Bakery: Where’s a good one for croissants in Paris?

Tout autour de pain. It’s a tiny bakery that’s won all these awards. The croissants, baguettes, and pain d’épice are great. Address: 134 rue de Turenne, 75003

C is for Cafe: Can you recommend one in Paris?

I like the big Ten Belles in the 11th arrondissement. They have really good food and pastries too, and you can sit outside during the summer. The staff is nice and their bread is really good. Address: 17-19 R. Bréguet, 75011 Paris

D is for Dessert: Which is your number one French dessert?

My favourite dessert to eat is Floating Island (Ile Flottante) – but I know not everyone likes it – it’s like squid or liquorice. Check out David’s own recipe for Ile Flottante here.

E is for Escargot: Love them or hate them?

I’m not a fan of snails, they eat everything in your garden. But you don’t really get them in France anymore, you have to go to a bistro. Everyone says eating snails is all about the sauce, but I wonder why people can’t just eat the sauce then?

F is for Foie gras: Delicious or animal cruelty?

I love foie gras but I try and buy it from a producer in France so I can guarantee the traceability. Sometimes the process is not super humane, but I think there are worse things done to animals that should merit the same or more attention.

G is for Gateau: What cake couldn’t you live without?

I would say Gâteau au chocolat – my favourite kind. Here’s one of David’s recipes for a simple chocolate cake.

H is for Home: what do you cook at home?

The other night I made a Vietnamese Bo bun, but sometimes I just grab a roast chicken from the local butcher. He’s my new best friend.

I is for International-themed croissants – the blind taste test.

In a blindfolded taste test (back in 2017), we gave David a croissant filled with Vegemite, one with Guacamole, and a third with a McDonald’s cheeseburger inside.

His reaction to the cheeseburger:

“Someone’s gonna do this here if word gets out. I think it could work, if you did a ground beef filling, some sort of mustard, or some middle eastern spices, you could do a really good savoury croissant.”

J is for Junk food: The French love McDonald’s – do you?

I’ve only had McDonald’s once since I’ve been in France – well twice after the blind taste test.

K is for Kitchen: What’s one accessory we all need?

I think every kitchen needs a mortar and pestle, for making tapenade, anchoïade and pistou.

L is for Legs (of frogs): Do you like them?

I don’t eat them because most come from places where they farm them like salmon or shrimps. They’re not really raised.

M is for Market: Which is your top tip for a food market in Paris?

My favourite is Marche D’Aligre (in the 12th). It’s open every day but Monday. I arrive and look at everything, including the boxes where everything’s just 50 cents.

I sometimes have a glass of wine at Baron Rouge, then I go to different stands for different things, everything from oranges, herbs, baguettes, and cheese. I go to the market twice a week.

It’s important to go to the same one every time, by the second or third time you’ll be treated better.

N is for Nutella: Is it the best crepe filling?

I’m more into savoury crepes, so I like ham and cheese as a filling. But I have a weakness for salted butter caramel.

O is for Own restaurant: What would you call it?

It’d be called Chez Dave and it would be in my imagination. I would never open my own restaurant. I’ve done it for others and can safely say it was the hardest thing I’ve done in my life.

P is for Pain au Chocolat… or chocolatine?

I never heard the word chocolatine until a few years ago, I’d always heard it as pain au chocolat. But some Parisian pastry chefs will still call it a chocolatine, perhaps as an affectation, or in a nod to their home town.

Q is for Quiche: What’s France’s relationship with it?

In America, some think eating quiche means you’re a snob. But here in France everyone eats it, you’ll see electrical workers eating it, for example, it’s kind of like a working-class food here.

R is for Restaurant: Which is a good one to visit in Paris?

My new favourite is called Pompette, it’s a wine bar in the 9th arrondissement. It gets really crowded, it’s for a young crowd and it’s perhaps not for everybody, but the food and the chef are really good. They have sharing plates – which I’m usually not a fan of – but it really works.

Address: 15 Rue Hippolyte Lebas, 75009 Paris

S is for Supermarket: Do you like them in France?

Whenever I travel I got to the supermarket – that’s how you know what people eat.

What’s sad is the American section of French supermarkets always has the worst of America. There’s strawberry fluff and powdered cheesecake mix – I’ve never even seen strawberry fluff in America. That’s probably why French people think we eat so badly.

T is for Thin: How do Parisians stay so thin given their rich diet?

I don’t think they eat so much fatty food, they smoke a lot and walk a lot. It’s like how in New York they are all buff because they’re walking, working out, going up and down Metro stairs. But if you leave Paris and travel around France, you’ll see people who are… well-fed.

U is for Undercooked chicken at a soirée? What should you do?

I wouldn’t say anything, just push it around the plate. It would be rude to point out, but it would also be rude if the host asked why you hadn’t eaten it. Just cut it into pieces and hide it under your knife and fork.

V is for Vin rouge: Which red wine should one drink?

Never be worried about what people say you should or shouldn’t drink or enjoy. Wine is personal, it’s not an upscale drink. Just drink which you like the taste of.

W is for White wine: What’s the cheapest good bottle going around?

You can get a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc for four or five euros and do pretty well with it.

X is for eggs (it works in audio): What’s the best egg-based French dish or treat?

I like an omelette, but I also like chouquettes.

Y is for Yoghurt: Why is there so much in French supermarkets?

Well, that’s mostly for the children. But it’s also good for you. French people will eat anything if you tell them it’s good for them.

Z is for Zzzz: What’s the best drink to have before bed?

That’d be Armagnac, which is nice to have a shot (or two) of, as a digestif, before going to bed.

And that’s it! Here’s this week’s episode again. Click here if you want to hear the 2017 recording of the A to Z podcast.

All photos by Augusta Sagnelli.

Find out more about David Lebovitz via his site here and subscribe to his newsletter on Substack here.

Want more from The Earful Tower? If you’re a Patreon member, we’ll be taking you on a live video walk through the market in the coming days. Sign up here.

What next? Well if you like food, you might like our Food and Drink section here. Or you could check out our recommendations for a great restaurant in each of the 20 Paris arrondissements.