Six golden rules for visiting Provence

On today’s episode we are talking all things Provence. This southern region in France is unparalleled in its majesty and atmosphere. But how to best describe Provence? For us, it conjures images of lavender fields, olives and spectacular scenery bathed in a unique muted light. Geographically-speaking, Provence is the southeastern part of France, which borders Italy and the Mediterranean Sea.

The podcast episode

No visit to France is complete without a stopover in Provence, but how to visit? What to plan? How to tackle it all? We leave Paris far behind us this week on the podcast and we share our six golden rules for visiting Provence. Whether it’s your first visit or you’re practically a resident, these rules serve to give you the most fulfilling experience. Listen to the show below, or wherever you get podcasts, and scroll down for the tips.

1) Adjust your sense of time

Time runs at a different speed in Provence. It’s standard for shops and businesses to close for a few hours at lunchtime, so expect a more sombre atmosphere, even in towns famed for their liveliness. And in the evening, it’s not uncommon for restaurants to be closed by 9pm. (Pictured above: early evening in L’Isle sur la Sorgue)

Visiting a typical Provençal market is one of the best things you can do on your trip, but don’t get caught out by arriving too late. They open after 7am and are shut by 2pm, so it’s advisable to arrive as early as possible.

2) Carry a fifty

Cash is still king in Provence, so it’s a good idea to always keep a fifty euro note with you, just in case. Card payments aren’t always possible, and, even when they are, sometimes the minimum payment amount is ridiculously high. Avoid awkward moments in pizza restaurants, grocery stores or markets by ensuring you are carrying a minimum amount of cash.

Read here for some more helpful tips if this is your first visit to Provence. (Pictured above: Market day at L’Isle sur la Sorgue).

3) Get wheels

Don’t forget that much of Provence is rural and, therefore, only really accessible on wheels. In the particular case of Buoux, a tiny town which also happens to be a mecca for rock climbing, there is an ancient cliff down a long and winding road that would be very difficult to access on foot. So get yourself onto two or four wheels and see as many sights as possible. (Pictured above: Saint Remy de Provence and Gordes)

4) Don’t put Paris on a pedestal

When you come to France, it’s always important to remember that Paris isn’t France and France isn’t Paris. They have distinctly different identities and Paris is of little interest to most French people in the rest of the country. Even mentioning the city can elicit hostility and derail a perfectly pleasant chat with shopkeepers and bartenders. The French are fiercely proud of their country and happy to talk about it all, so don’t feel the need to start off by talking about your stop in Paris. Focus on what you’re doing and what you’re planning to do, especially if it’s related to Provence.

5) Think seasonal

What’s the best time of the year to visit Provence? This is key to factor into your plans, although, with over 300 days of sun a year, there’s a good chance you’ll visit in good weather. We’ve seen Provence across the year and it evolves throughout. For example, the lavender fields are an iconic image of Provence, but the lavender season only runs from March to early August.

Another famed Provençal quirk is le mistral – a strong, cold, northwesterly wind that blows across southern France – and was very present during our October visit. Research what you want to see (and what you want to avoid) and plan accordingly. (Pictured above: Avignon)

6) Don’t be too ambitious

Provence is a large region, so don’t try to do it all. The best use of your time is to make a short list of must-see villages and sights and allow yourself the time to fully explore them. It goes against the Provençal approach to time and life to rush around and only skim-read this region. No doubt there are places which warrant only a brief visit, but there’s so much to appreciate when you consciously visit Provence at a slower speed. (Pictured above: Aix en Provence)

In 2018, we spent a week of our honeymoon scootering across the region. Read about it here.

That’s it! This podcast episode was recorded on-the-go in Paris. The video will come out later this week so please make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel to see it, and all our other Paris walks videos, amongst many other visual treats.

As for you, well, you’re sure to enjoy Provence. Once again, here’s the podcast episode below to get your in the mood.

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