Guide to the 17th arrondissement of Paris: A slice of family life

It’s season 12 of The Earful Tower and we’re visiting each of the 20 Paris arrondissements in reverse order. Here comes the in-depth guide after we spent 24 hours in the 17th arrondissement.

The 17th is truly a family-oriented arrondissement. We fit right in with our pushchair (or stroller for the Americans reading this). But it’s also a district of contrasts. One side seems much more like a village (the east side), the other side near the Arc de Triomphe is far grander and certainly pricier. We visited it all, here are our tips.

A big thank you to the Patreon supporters, without whom we wouldn’t be making this season. Join them here.

The interactive map

First, here’s an interactive map of everything we are about to recommend, to help you find it all easily.

The Earful Tower podcast episode

Here’s the podcast episode, featuring me and my wife Lina discussing our findings. There’s also an interview with an American living inside a domed rooftop, and the head bartender from a cool cocktail bar (more on them both below). In the episode we also give our final ranking on the district out of 100.

Video guide to the 17th arrondissement

Here is our visit in video format, from our YouTube channel, so you can feel like you’re there too! We’ll be making one of these every week, so be sure to subscribe (you can do it in one click via this link).

The Earful Tower’s guide to the 17th arrondissement

A hotel in the 17th

Villa Alessandra: Let’s be honest, there aren’t a lot of hotels in the 17th and most of them are very basic get-in-and-get-out joints. The Villa Alessandra did the trick, it was in a quiet area with easy access to the market street rue de Lévis. Address: 9 Pl. Boulnois, 75017 @villa_alessandra_paris

Great restaurants in the 17th arrondissement

Mamma Primi: Part of the famed Mamma group, this restaurant is cool and the staff were all on their A-game. This was the place where we got the Goodfellas welcome (mentioned in the podcast). Wonderful food, excellent ambience. Address: 18 Rue Boursault, 75017 @bigmammagroup

Le Dada: Top-notch local bistro with a funky mosaic interior. We got breakfast here and it hit the spot! Address: 12 Av. des Ternes, 75017 @ledada_paris

Le Rouge et le Verre Brunel: Full disclosure, we didn’t eat or drink here as it was closing, but we chatted with the staff and took a look around and just knew we had to come back. There’s a big table by an open fireplace – that’s where we want to be next time! Address: 33 Rue Brunel, 75017 Paris

Excellent places for a drink

L’Ambre Bar: The owner, Kevin, used to run the bar at the luxury Crillon hotel but took his talents to start this chic cocktail bar in 2012. Classic drinks in a bar with a wild history (ask why there’s a peephole in the front door… or listen to the pod where we discussed it!)

When I asked him which cocktail matches the 17th arrondissement, he said it would be a Bourbon Old Fashioned, made very woody. “Because people know what they like to drink, you have this whole woody old-fashioned way of living in Paris, with these old buildings close to classical things…” he said on the pod.

Address:  29 Rue Brunel, 75017

Les Caves Populaires: This place is the polar opposite of the Ambre bar above. Students and older locals hang out here for cheap drinks and a lively atmopshere. Address: 22 Rue des Dames, 75017 @lescavespopulaires

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The best cafe in the 17th arrondissement

Dose Café: Lovely little place with a brilliant location, right by the Square des Batignolles. Sit on the sunny terrace or take your coffee to go and stroll in the park. Address: 82 Place du Dr Félix Lobligeois, 75017 @dose.paris

More things to find in the 17th district

Stroll around Square des Batignolles. This is one of the prettiest English gardens you’re going to come across with a surprisingly diverse bird population. Address: 144 bis Rue Cardinet, 75017

Rent a bike and truly explore: This was the best way to get around, for sure. We rented from Holland Bikes and didn’t regret it. The streets are wide, there isn’t much traffic, and it even was easy with a baby on the back! If we can do it, you can too!

Search for the domed rooftops: These domes (or coupolas) are an architectural delight and they’re dotted around in this arrondissement. If you want to see inside one, I’ll be sharing more pics from my interview with an American who lives inside one of them! Check out our blog post on the Paris domes here.

Cité de l’Économie: If you’re deeply into how money is made, you’ll love this museum. If, like me, you love old buildings, you might love it too. The exterior is exceptional.

The building is the historical Hôtel Gaillard, constructed in late 1800s in the Renaissance Revival style. It was home to a wealthy banker, then was converted to a bank, and now is a museum about currency. Clearly a theme here! Check out that interior, below. Address: 1 Pl. du Général Catroux, 75017

Square Batignolles: This is the area with most of the local charm, take a stroll around here for the best idea of the 17th arrondissement.

And be sure to admire all the small details while you’re in the neighbourhood…

Rue de Lévis market street: And lastly, be sure to take a walk down rue de Lévis, which is particularly lovely even when it’s not market day.

That will do for now! I hope you enjoyed episode four for this season. Check out our tips on the 16th arrondissement here or have a look at all our Paris countdown blog posts here.

That will do for now! I hope you enjoyed episode one for this new season and if you enjoyed this guide, why not check out our guide to the 19th arrondissement?