Guide to the 14th arrondissement of Paris: The surprise package

The 14th arrondissement is totally skipped by most tourists, unless they’re seeking out the Catacombs. But the truth is, there is an awful lot to find here. I can’t believe how much we packed into 24 hours.

For this week’s episode of the Paris Countdown, we ate in an iconic restaurant, slept in an incredible hotel, and found the most beautiful village-style street in the whole city. And so much more. Listen to the podcast for the full story, and keep scrolling for all the info and pictures.

For Patreon members, an additional itinerary and Walk Show video from the local flea market is right here.

The Earful Tower podcast episode

Here’s the podcast episode, featuring me and my wife Lina discussing our findings. There are also a few interviews from experts and locals. At the end of the episode we give our final ranking on the district out of 100. Spoiler alert: It did very well.

Video guide to the 14th arrondissement

Here’s our visit, in video format, from our YouTube channel. We’ll be making one of these travel vlogs every week, so be sure to subscribe (you can do it in one click via this link).

The Earful Tower’s guide to the 14th arrondissement

Where to stay?

Hotel Cabane: What’s not to love? This is a gem of a hotel, where the main suite is a cabin in the woods. Well, it’s a wood cabin with a private garden. You’ll feel like you’re somewhere in Sweden. The staff members are incredibly friendly and the common areas are tastefully designed. Perfectly located for exploring the 14th. @hotelcabane Info Address: 76 Rue Raymond Losserand, 75014

Good places to eat in the 14th arrondissement

La Belle Ronde Hidden away in a secret garden, in the shade of a magnolia tree, you’ll find this cheap and cheerful crepe joint. It’s all about the outdoor terrace, the interior looks like a bubblegum spaceship crossed with a canteen for Teletubbies. Crepes and galettes and cider, right off rue Daguerre. Address: 19 Rue Daguerre, 75014

Le Dôme This iconic restaurant still has the charm. You can’t get a full meal for a dollar like you could in the golden days of Hemingway and Picasso, but the seafood menu is a treat and the interior is charming. Read a lot more about our visit and see more of the interior here. @ledomemontparnasse Address: 108 Bd du Montparnasse, 75014

Land & Monkeys. Here’s a rare thing in Paris: a vegan bakery! Delicious pastries in a cool part of town. Address: 85 Rue Raymond Losserand, 75014

Great places for a drink in the 14th

Rosebud This place is oozing with old-school charm and the bartenders take their cocktails seriously. Do you hear the ghostly whispers of Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre? Both used to visit this bar, and incidentally both are buried around the corner. Address: 11 Rue Delambre, 75014

Le Tournesol This is a fine place for an apéro, we sat inside, but the terrace looked good too. In fact, the whole street is full of inviting terraces, you can’t go wrong. @cafetournesol Address: 9 Rue de la Gaité, 75014

La Coupole We may have visited this place too late (100 years too late, according to the podcast…) but if you want to tick this off the bucket list, you may as well look inside and have a coffee or a dessert, as we did. @la_coupole_paris Address: 102 Bd du Montparnasse, 75014

The best cafe

Hexagone Café Good coffee on a quiet street – and they roast it too. Take a coffee to go and say hello to Jacobo next door. @hexagonecafe Address: 121 Rue du Château, 75014

Aussi This curiosity shop kind of sums up the neighbourhood. Eclectic, charming, unusual and interesting. You can hear the voice of the owner, Jacopo Leone, in the podcast this week. Address: 119 Rue du Château, 75014

Things to find in the 14th

Église Notre-Dame-du-Travail Have you ever seen this much metal inside a church? It was stripped from one of the Universal Expositions and put to good use in this intriguing church. Address: 59 Rue Vercingétorix, 75014 

Comédie-Italienne This eye-catching facade may be on the way out, if the local Town Hall gets its way. Tens of thousands have signed a petition trying to save it, but if you want to see it, be quick, just in case. Address: 17 Rue de la Gaité, 75014

Montparnasse Cemetery Loads of famed names in this cemetery, including Serge Gainsbourg, Jean Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoire, Baudelaire, Jacques Chirac… the list goes on. Address: 3 Bd Edgar Quinet, 75014 

Musée de la Libération de Paris Ever been in a Paris WW2 bunker? Head to this museum if you’re into WW2 history, you’ll surely love it. It features the defence shelter where French Resistance fighters planned the liberation of Paris from German Nazi occupation. There are relics of the past including gas masks and old posters – but be warned: it’s absolutely impossible to visit with a wheelchair or stroller, it’s about 100 steps to get down there. Address: 4 Av. du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 75014

Giacometti Institute: This charming little museum showcases the world’s largest collection of works by Alberto Giacometti, including sculptures, drawings, paintings, photographs and objects by the artist. Address: Address: 5 Rue Victor Schoelcher, 75014 Paris

The Catacombs of Paris: This is surely the most popular tourist destination in the district – and you don’t need us to explain it. Old bones, long queues, dark tunnels. If you want a much more thrilling story about the Catacombs, read about when I snuck into the illegal part here (or watch the video below). Address: 1 Av. du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 75014

Rue des Thermopyles

What a magical alleyway. If you get this place to yourself in good weather, you’ll think you’re walking down some kind of quiet street in Provence. Picturesque, quiet, quaint, and lovely.

Looks like the background of a Wes Anderson movie, almost.

Market Street Rue Daguerre: Like a less touristy version of rue Cler, this street is perfect for wandering along with an ice-cream in hand, people-watching, crepe-eating, coffee-sipping, and enjoying the treats of the local market life.

Vanves Flea market. This excellent market is much more fun than its famous big brother to the north (Saint-Ouen), so be sure to visit one weekend. You can read a lot more about my visit here, and if you’re a Patreon member, click here for a replay of my stroll through the market. Address: 5 Av. de la Porte de Vanves, 75014

Stroll: Rue de la Gaîté: This is the theatre street of Montparnasse, complete with endless inviting terraces, restaurants, and good vibes.

That will do for now! I hope you enjoyed episode seven for this new season. Next week we’ll be taking you to the 13th arrondissement. A big thanks Charlotte Pleasants for the additional reporting, and to the Patreon members who make all this possible. Join them here.

Do you enjoy these guides? Want even more? support this work? Become a Patreon member and unlock loads of bonuses on the way. This entire season is brought to you by these Patrons, there’s no other sponsors, no adverts, and we’re accepting no freebies 🙂

3 thoughts on “Guide to the 14th arrondissement of Paris: The surprise package

  1. Oliver, each episode gets better and better! Question: You speak French, so must every person who goes into these bars & restaurants speak French as well? Coming in June.

    1. Thanks! You can absolutely get by in English. Sometimes we even speak English in these places just to experience it as tourists 🙂 Just ask if they speak english first, the worst thing is to just speak English AT French people 🙂

  2. It was fun hearing your podcast on the 14th. I have friends who live there so I always stroll down rue des Thermopyles. Famed film director, Agnes Varda lived at 86 rue Daguerre and made several of her films about her neighbors on rue Daguerre!!

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