It’s season 12 of the Earful Tower and we’re visiting each of the 20 Paris arrondissements in reverse order. Here comes our in-depth guide after we spent 24 hours in the 18th arrondissement.
Now, we have to preface all this by saying that we lived in Montmartre for two years. So, to keep it interesting, we tried to find new things to do on this visit, things even we hadn’t done as residents. So you can forget the Sacré Coeur, the Moulin Rouge, and even the Montmartre cemetery, for example. They’re all excellent, for sure, but we wanted to go a bit deeper. (By the way, you can click on all the images to see them bigger.)
Here are all the things we did over our 24 hours in this district. Be sure to listen to the podcast for the artist interview and our honest feedback on our adventures. And if you’re looking for even more Montmartre tips, here’s a list with all my work on the neighbourhood, including a video where I walked down the main streets with the local mayor.
A big thank you to the Patreon supporters, without whom we wouldn’t be making this season. Join them here.
The interactive map
First, here’s an interactive map of everything we are about to recommend, to help you find it all easily.
The Earful Tower podcast episode
Here’s the podcast episode, featuring me and my wife Lina discussing our findings. There’s also an interview with Basil the artist from Place du Tertre. In the episode we also give our final ranking on the district out of 100. Hint: The score was the highest so far.
The video guide to the 18th arrondissement
Here’s our visit, in video format, from our YouTube channel. We’ll be making one of these travel vlogs every week, so be sure to subscribe (you can do it in one click via this link).
The Earful Tower’s guide to the 18th arrondissement
Where to stay?
Terrass Hotel. Easily the best hotel we’ve stayed at so far, with gobsmacking views over Paris. We booked the Eiffel Suite and didn’t regret it for a second. Lovely hotel, top marks, and the staff went the extra mile when I said we were visiting for a special occasion. Address: 12-14 Rue Joseph de Maistre, 75018 @terrasshotel
A great restaurant experience in Montmartre
Le Moulin de la Galette: OK this isn’t something you’d find in the Michelin guide, but the ambience is lovely, the waiters are on their A game, and the setting is remarkable – you’re under an ancient wooden windmill in the setting of a Renoir painting! @lemoulindelagaletteofficiel Address: 83 Rue Lepic, 75018
Best places for a drink in Montmartre
Terrass Rooftop Bar: Very easily the best view from a bar/restaurant in the whole district. So many people don’t seem to know about this place. It’s not just for hotel guests, this is for everyone. Get up there! Address: 12 Rue Joseph de Maistre, 75018
Chez Camille: This is the place we discussed on the podcast, a bar for the locals, young and old, with all kinds of cool memorabilia on the wall. @bar_chez_camille Address: 8 Rue Ravignan, 75018
The best cafés in the 18th
There are numerous excellent coffee shops in Montmartre, but here are two you might not have heard about yet. Meanwhile, here’s my list of seven excellent cafes in Montmartre.
La Main Noire: We had breakfast here and loved it. Very friendly community vibe inside, lots of space, and delicious food and coffee. @la.main.noire Address: 12 Rue Cavallotti, 75018
The Beans on Fire – Trois Frères: This team already has a great cafe in the 11th, exciting to see they’re expanding with this cute spot in Montmartre. When you’re done here, stroll up rue Androuet, which was made famous (at least in my books) for getting frozen as the setting for a 1942 movie. @thebeansonfire Address: 61 Rue des Trois Frères, 75018
More things to find in the 18th arrondissement
Place du Tertre: Embrace your inner tourist and explore the art scene here. You can go all in, like we did, and get your portrait done. Or, just watch it all happening. Here’s a full story and many more pictures about when we got our portrait done (and how you can do one too). Address: Pl. du Tertre, 75018 Paris
Dalí Museum: If you’re a fan of Salvador Dalí, this is the museum for you. You can even buy one of his lithographs downstairs. However, full disclosure, if you only have time for one museum, begin with the Musée de Montmartre around the corner. Address: 11 Rue Poulbot, 75018
Halle Saint Pierre: This bookshop and gallery has a stunning interior, best viewed from the top of the staircase. Even if you only pop in for a quick look you’ll no doubt be impressed. @hallesaintpierre Address: 2 Rue Ronsard, 75018
Rue Cavalotti: If you visit this street in the early morning, before the shops’ shutters open, you can see an impressive of street art. The stencils pay homage to the Montmartre artists of past decades and make for a colourful walk!
That will do for now. A big thanks to Augusta Sagnelli for her contribution to the photos, and to Charlotte Pleasants for additional reporting. I hope you enjoyed episode three for this season, and remember, I’ve got so many more Montmartre tips here. Next we’ll be taking you to the 17th arrondissement.
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One thought on “Guide to the 18th arrondissement of Paris: What to find in Montmartre”
Another winner! My wife, Paula, and I were saying last week that we hoped y’all would get out of the touristy areas and show us around the back of the Butte, but we understand your decision. We usually stay in the 18th or 9th, so our wish was a bit selfish, but you did a bang-up job with it. After having visited Paris a dozen-plus times (in addition to a semester of college for her), we had eschewed Le Moulin de la Galette until this past October. We stopped by for lunch after a fascinating morning at le musée de Montmartre, and we were very pleasantly surprised with it in every respect. Your comments were spot on. I highly recommend it, along with your other comments (well, I’ve seen enough of Place du Tertre, but it must be experienced).