The ninth arrondissement may as well be two districts. There’s playful Pigalle to the north, where you can find everything from cool bars to sex shops… And then to the south is the famous Palais Garnier Opera House and the Printemps and Lafayette department stores.
We’ve just spent a full day in the district as part of the “Paris Countdown”, here’s what we found.
The interactive map
First, here’s an interactive map of everything we are about to recommend, to help you find it all easily.
The Earful Tower podcast episode
This podcast episode is all about our visit to the 9th district of Paris and includes our final ranking on the district out of 100.
Video guide to the 9th arrondissement
Here’s our visit in video format, via our YouTube channel. We’ll be making one of these travel vlogs every week, so be sure to subscribe (you can do it in one click via this link).
The Earful Tower’s guide to the 9th arrondissement

Great things to find in the 9th arrondissement
Palais Garnier: The opulent and incredible Palais Garnier is surprisingly easy to visit. You don’t need to watch a show to get inside, you don’t even need to do a guided tour. For 12 euros you can pop in and explore it yourself. That’s what we did and I’d highly recommend it. Tip: go early, it gets busy in there, and don’t miss the gilded Grand Foyer. Address: Pl. de l’Opéra, 75009



Printemps Haussmann: One of the two department stores in the area, Printemps offers upmarket shopping options, but also plenty for the non-shopper. The domed ceiling (pictured below) is stunning.
@printemps Address: 64 Bd Haussmann, 75009


The Perruche restaurant on the top floor was closed when we visited, but we’ve been before and can assure you that the food is great and the views are spectacular.



Place Edouard VII: Near the Opera is this tucked-away square full of theatres and small restaurants. Perfect for escaping the bustle nearby. Address: 24 Bd des Capucines, 75009



Cité Malesherbes: If you time it right you can sneak into this impressive gated community, featuring some of the most impressive buildings in the area. The painted facade halfway down the street (pictured below), is simply breathtaking. Note: This is indeed a private road. Don’t tell anyone I sent you!



More good restaurants in the 9th arrondissement
Papilles Coffeehouse & Restaurant: This is a top spot with friendly staff and delicious brunch options. @papillesparis Address: 77 Rue Marguerite de Rochechouart, 75009




Café de la Paix: Here’s a beautiful and classic restaurant that’s sure to impress. Our photographer, Augusta Sagnelli, went in for a look around and a French onion soup. She says: “Potted citrus trees line the inside of the dining hall, and friendly English-speaking servers are eager to provide attentive service. If you’re looking to dine at a clean, tourist friendly Parisian restaurant with plenty of space you can add Cafe de la Paix to your list”. @cafedelapaixparis Address: 5 Pl. de l’Opéra, 75009





Dumbo Pigalle: On the other end of the dining spectrum is the wildly popular Dumbo. The menu only offers cheeseburgers and chips. In fact, it’s not even a restaurant, just a hole in the wall serving up some of the best takeaway food in town. @dumboparis Address: 64 Rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle, 75009




Great drinks/bars in the 9th arrondissement
Le Mansart: A classic Paris bistro where the young locals hang out from lunch until the early hours of the morning. @lemansart Address: 1 Rue Mansart, 75009



Maison Souquet: Once a brothel back in the early 1900s, this five-star hotel offers a quiet spot with great cocktails, perfect for a quiet date night, perhaps before visiting the Opera. @maisonsouquetteofficial Address: 10 Rue de Bruxelles, 75009



Coffee in the 9th arrondissement
KB CaféShop: A classic! Grab a spot on their sweeping terrace and watch the ninth arrondissement go by. @kbcoffeeroastersparis Address: 53 Av. Trudaine, 75009




That will do for now! This week we’ll be taking you for a closer look at 9th arrondissement, so watch this space.
A big thanks to Augusta Sagnelli for the photos, Charlotte Pleasants for the additional reporting, and to the Patreon members who make all this possible. Join them here.

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You seem to have missed the Hotel Drouot, the great salles de vente, a unique auction house.
We did miss it on this trip, but we’ve recommended it before, I’ve interviewed one of the head auctioneers!