Guide to the 15th arrondissement of Paris: The overlooked district

The 15th arrondissement is overlooked by Paris tourists, even though parts of it overlook the tourists’ Paris. What am I talking about? Well, this neighbourhood is definitely off the beaten path and mostly a place for residents. But if you know where to go, you can get exceptional views overlooking all of Paris. Depending on the wind, of course.

The interactive map

First, here’s an interactive map of everything we are about to recommend, to help you find it all easily.

This map was created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android

The Earful Tower podcast episode

Here’s the podcast episode, featuring me and my wife Lina discussing our findings after spending 24 hours here for our Paris countdown. In the episode we also give our final ranking on the district out of 100.

Video guide to the 15th arrondissement

Here’s our visit, in video format, from our YouTube channel (embedded below). We’ll be making one of these travel vlogs every week, so be sure to subscribe (you can do it in one click via this link).

The Earful Tower’s guide to the 15th arrondissement

Where to stay in the 15th?

Relais 12bis: If you’re looking to stay in a classic, big, old Parisian home, then this boutique hotel is for you. One family owns the whole building, and one floor is for guests, with just a handful of bedrooms and shared living and dining room. Note: the site says you have to book at least two nights, but we called ahead and got one. Bonus: it’s very close to the Eiffel Tower. Address: 12 Bis Rue Desaix, 75015

A great restaurant

Cafe du Commerce: This is the place we raved about in the podcast episode. Charming waiters, a fun interior stretched over three levels, and steeped in local history. No visit to the 15th is complete without a dinner here. @lecafeducommerce.1921. Address: 51 Rue du Commerce, 75015

Best place for a drink

Le Ciel de Paris Restaurant: Let’s face it: It’s all about the view. You’d be mad to come here expecting world-class cocktails. But that view is spectacular.

Just make sure you reserve a spot for dinner – and even just for a drink as it’s quite packed up here. Address: Tour Maine Montparnasse, 56ème, Av. du Maine, 75015

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The best cafe in the 15th

Good News Coffee Shop: This place is run by an Australian by the name of Fox: That’s him in the cap, below, and you can hear his voice in the podcast episode. His cafe, Good News, is a beautiful spot for lunch and/or a flat white coffee. @good_news_coffeeshop Address: 27 bis Rue Mademoiselle, 75015

More things to find in the 15th arrondissement

Poilâne Tour Eiffel: The bread and pastry even look amazing – but they taste even better. The pictures below are from one of their bakeries in this neighbourhood, the other one is by the Georges Brassens park and looked wonderful too. @poilane Address: 49 Bd de Grenelle, 75015

Île aux Cygnes: There are many more pictures from this excellent strolling island here, but be sure to walk all the way to the western edge for a closer look at the biggest statue of liberty in Paris. (Here’s how to find the other seven). Address: Île aux Cygnes, 75015

Ballon de Paris: If there’s no wind you can fly this helium balloon way up over Paris… At least that’s what we’re told. On the morning we visited it was closed for wind. Address: Parc André Citroën, 75015

Musée Bourdelle: This is a sculpture museum showcasing the work of Antoine Bourdelle and it’s rather impressive. Some of the sculptures are huge! While we didn’t visit this museum during our 24-hour visit, we once did an unusual photoshoot here (full story in the podcast, a glimpse at the shoot below). Address: 18 Rue Antoine Bourdelle, 75015

A beautiful park in the 15th

Parc Georges Brassens: You’re a long way from central Paris here but this is a lovely park, very family friendly, and just a stone’s throw from the Vanves Flea Market (which we’ll be talking about next week for the 14th arrondissement). Address: 2 Pl. Jacques Marette, 75015 Paris

That will do for now! I hope you enjoyed episode six for this new season. Next week we’ll be taking you to the 14th arrondissement. A big thanks to Charlotte Pleasants for the additional reporting, Emily Jackson for the photos and to the Patreon members who make all this possible. Join them here.

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The Earful Tower’s 2024 Guide to Paris [PDF]

19.99

It’s here and updated for 2024! After 14 seasons of making The Earful Tower podcast, featuring hundreds of expert guests, I’ve thoroughly updated my ultimate guide to Paris. There are 150 tips spread over 100 pages, arranged by arrondissement. You’ll find our choices for best restaurants, cafes, hidden treats, parks and museums. All of them…

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